Wednesday, 27 April 2016

Top Sausage 2015 - Churchgate Sausage Company - Red Pepper & Chorizo

We've tried extensively the products from the Churchgate Sausage Company over the last few years and these Red Pepper & Chorizo certainly got our interest going. Not to mention our tastebuds...

Jason Drage tells us that his father made sausages for many years before him and the combination of really good quality pork, with red pepper and chorizo according to his father do really make for a good sausage flavour.  We would agree too having now tried them out on a few guests who were all in agreement that the Churchgate Red Pepper & Chorizo is a top sausage.

Now in the cooking up (we pan fry as in all our sampling) yes they do leak a bit of dark oil in to the pan, from the chorizo no doubt, but this isn't an issue is it?  Well we don't think so as it's this oil that's got flavour itself that the sausage sizzles in. The good quality natural skins tightened up and what was most noticeable was there was no shrinkage of the product.  OK a little weight loss which you would expect in the cooking process as some moisture is cooked off and oil released from the chorizo. 

I will ask Jason though when I call in to the shop next, what sort of percentages in the mix is he using, as the balance between the pork and the chorizo was absolutely spot on as far as we were concerned.  Not so much chorizo that the sausage becomes heavy and dense, but enough pork so that the sausage still retains fair texture with a good bite, and avoids being a heavy going to eat "sausage log"!

Taste-wise we all agreed these particular sausages were bang on the money, with just enough red pepper flavour sweetness to please, and just enough chorizo flavouring to provide a warmth and tingle to the taste.

The texture of the cooked sausage was pleasing with a really good distribution of ingredients that can be easily seen from the photo below.  

Jason Drage of the Churchgate Sausage Company certainly knows his stuff when it comes to sausage making. 

This is THE flavour so far we've found in 2015 that you really must try.

Top Sausage 2015 - Churchgate - Red Pepper & Chorizo


See our other reviews: www.sausagereview.co.uk  

Monday, 9 March 2015

Top Sausage 2014 - Allingham's of Hitchin, Herts, UK - OSB


Sausage Review have been searching for a 5 banger mark sausage for quite a while, and here we go, we think we've found one...certainly our Top Sausage of 2014...

Now the OSB, or Oxford Sandy & Black, that Allingham's make is a fine looking sausage in the raw. They quote a minimum 65% Oxford Sandy & Black pork meat on these but you can easily tell they are a really, really well made item with top quality meat, probably (I think for sure) well over the percentage they advise!  Top quality natural skins are used of course and all tied beautifully.


Allingham's shop is right central in the old town market place and is a delight incidentally, like going back slightly in time and a really nice experience. The butchers serve you, have a chat with you in that old style friendly way I remember from my young years, and then you go to the cash desk window at the back of the shop to part with your money!  If you call in, do look out for plenty of free samples of sausages on the counter top. Believe me they are very proud of their sausages, and they will tell you such without prompting!

The OSB sausages cooked up beautifully, with nicely browned skins, and a medium texture that gave a good bite, but didn't need a heavy chew at all.  Succulent, and definitely moreish!

Got to stop a minute, I'm salivating writing this! 

The flavour was what I would describe as delicate, with a light spice and a taste that gently lingered on the tongue.  We all immediately agreed on the scoring for these I hasten to add. They are that good as far as we are concerned!  

I had to fight to keep one sausage back to be eaten cold later...and what can we say about that...in a word...wonderful!  A right proper sausage.

Minimum shrinkage and weight loss in cooking, no splits, or spits.  All in all, absolutely delightful food!  A worthy 5 banger marks scored!

Don't just take our word for these, if you get a chance call in and buy some.
Allingham's Old English sausages are blooming good too!


Allingham's of Hitchin, Hertfordshire - OSB (Oxford Sandy & Black)

Top Sausage 2014

See the full review: www.sausagereview.co.uk 


Friday, 3 January 2014

Top Sausage 2013 - Churchgate Sausage Company - Pork, Beef & Mustard

We spotted these the very first morning that the Churchgate Sausage Company of Sheering, Essex (near Old Harlow) got a couple of shelves of display in our local Budgens Store...didn't go in for sausages...but came out with these!...

We've tried many of the very fine sausages made by Jason Drage of the Churchgate Sausage Company and all of then have been top notch, but these have been the ones we've liked the best so far. Usually we talk about the product before we make statement like this but these Pork, Beef & Mustard really hit the mark.



The combination of 40% pork and 40% beef really do provide a wonderful meaty balance, but then add some bread crumbs and mustard plus a few bits of spinach leaf too and what have you got? 
You've got a stonkingly good sausage!

The excellent quality skins cook up and brown really well.  The texture is medium, retains quite a succulence and the feel in the mouth as you bite is blooming good.  See the image of sliced sausage below...


We were so impressed with these, we gave a pack to senior family members to try and to give us their own views...all they said in a slight Suffolk lilt was "those sausages were bootiful".  So a result all round then!


A very well made and balanced sausage that has stayed at the top of our charts.

Jason Drage of the Churchgate Sausage Company certainly knows his stuff when it comes to sausage making. You've just simply got to try these.



Churchgate - Pork, Beef & Mustard
Top Sausage 2013



www.churchgatesausage.co.uk

See our other reviews: www.sausagereview.co.uk 

Tuesday, 17 December 2013

Sausage Fest 2013

I have a passion about sausages.  My wife calls it an obsession.  
Hey ho!  It’s only an interest.  Honest!

We had some friends visit over at the weekend and she suggested we all had “Sausage and Mash” for a meal.  I thought yes, at last...passion rules OK.

Little did I know this was a psychologically underhanded and heavily disguised ploy to clear out my half a drawer of “sausage stash” from the freezer to make some space before Christmas!

So if you’re going to do sausage and mash, you need the right main ingredient…the sausages! Listed here in alphabetical order only, were my choices for the evenings entertainment:

Churchgate Sausage Co’s - 5 Chilli sausage
Churchgate Sausage Co’s - Boerewors 
Heap’s - Award Winning No 1 sausage 
Heap’s – Smithfield Breakfast sausage
Mountain’s - Boston sausage
Mountain’s – Farmhouse sausage

The preparation was very involved (yes, yes, only logistically) but eventually using two frying pans and a full grill pan, I managed to cook all 38 sausages.  The mashed potatoes, fine green beans and the thick, thick onion gravy, using a method involving extensive saucepan movements on the hob completed the task…

Enough food to feed an army.  Mind you, there were just the 4 of us.  
Tuck in then we did, plenty to go round…

Hmm, I didn’t mention the home made “brussel sprout” soup for starters…it was really good too and well, that’s entirely another story!

Back to the sausages.  My wife had suggested (good idea…wish I’d thought of that first) I make and attach some cocktail stick flags to each of the small piles of sausages just so our guests could decide their preferences.  Just as well really on reflection, because the Churchgate 5 Chilli really has a sting in the tail!


Churchgate 5 Chilli
Heaps Smithfield Breakfast











Churchgate Boerewors
Mountains Boston











Mountains Farmhouse
Heaps Award Winning No1










Over a really nice wine jelly with whole blueberries and double thick cream (oh we do live well here) to finish, we had a discussion with our guests on their thoughts on the sausages presented…

The 5 Chilli it appears were very tasty but far too hot for the girlies!  Mountain’s Farmhouse were succulent but too crumbly and peppery…for the girlies!  Seems like a pattern appearing….   I thought that the Heap’s Award Winning No 1 with it’s mild spice would prove popular with the girlies, but not so either.

Heap’s Smithfield Breakfast with it’s slightly peppery taste and Mountain’s Boston sausage with similar mild “pepperiness” jointly got the most votes…mind you Churchgate’s Boerewors with it’s deep “beefiness” was a close runner-up!

All super sausages with mash and onion gravy we all agreed!


If you want to read individual sausage reviews, have a look at  www.sausagereview.co.uk

Friday, 25 October 2013

Why are German bratwurst so special?

A while ago I was emailed a question: "Why are German bratwurst so special?" 

Well Dave (from Didcot), now come on, the words bratwurst and special don't immediately in my mind especially go together.  I can't say I even remember the last time I had one as part of a meal or even a take-away.  Yes Ok I know they're popular in Germany and the US...but here in the UK?  Not sure... 


What is a BRATWURST then?   


Basically , a sausage made from pork, in a natural (or synthetic...horrid things) case or skin, that's grilled or pan fried.  So what's different about these than our British banger or chipolata? 


There's quite a few varieties and shapes and sizes of bratwurst available in Germany which individual regions claim as their own.  Coburg have their "Coburger Bratwurst" made from veal or beef, with only salt , pepper, nutmeg and lemon zest added.  Traditionally cooked over pine cones or so they say.  Whereas the Swabian region has it's spicy "Rote Wurst" made from finely ground pork and bacon.  They cut an X in to the ends when grilling or frying. The ends open during cooking, with the rest remaining as is, thus giving it a shape all of it's own.  The Wurzburger bratwurst is a variance on the spicy Thuringer but theirs with white wine added.  

Ooo I'm getting interested in "brats" the more I research.... 


The makings are evidently more often than not minced very finely we're told using a "bowl-cutter" (sometimes known as a "bowl chopper") to almost emulsify the meat.  Passing the mix through a very fine mincing plate a couple or even three times gets close to it but to make them accurately, a bowl-cutter is what's needed.  The mix is then loaded in to preferably natural skins. 

The "brats" would be normally steamed (or pan simmered in water) to cook them and then chilled ready for use.  Frying them off in a hot pan or under/over a grill to give them colour before serving.  Some recommend spraying them with water or beer whilst they're grilling to keep the skins cool.  Cooking them by grilling or pan frying, without pre-cooking is a skill, as burning the outside and the inside remaining under cooked or raw is very likely.  Not good. 


OK, so I arranged some un-cooked brats from our local sausage specialist (The Churchgate Sausage Company of Sheering, Essex).  Yes they're not German produce but these will do to get started with an opinion on bratwurst.  As it happens, we liked the "Churchgate Bratwurst" from Herr Drage...mind you I suppose we should have eaten them rather than with mash and onions, but in a bread roll with some German mustard perhaps.  Hey ho, next time.  The texture of the meat was fine/smooth and the taste was definitely different to a British sausage.  More like a frankfurter (or dare I say a "saveloy").  Don't get us wrong, there was nothing wrong with the "foreign" sausage, but then again we like what we like and no doubt other nationalities like what they like! 


I've read that in Nuremburg alone the estimate is around 1 billion brats being produced a year! Now add the rest of Germany's production and you've got a serious amount of sausages being consumed! It appears to be around 60 lbs of sausage consumed per person per year in Germany...and they have around 81 million citizens!  This compared with the UK's 63 million people and 7 lbs of sausage per person per year!  Good heavens!  


I've also read that VW factory in Wolfsburg have their own butchery department within the factory complex that produces LOADS of sausage for the staff meals and supplies some very local supermarkets.  Whether they only produce their very popular "currywurst" or do in fact produce bratwurst as well, I may need to arrange a visit to find out! 

Audi in Bavaria, also have their own butchery department...pork/veal/milk weiswurst over there.... 


Now back to the initial question...I still can't see why German Bratwurst would be so special.  I prefer the Great British Banger personally, but then that's me!  However I'm sure there's people out there who would disagree...each to their own of course!    

So perhaps the question should have been "Why are German Bratwurst so popular"! 


Answer: They taste good and 81 million Germans will no doubt be the first to say so.... 


BTW: Did you know that sausage production in Germany, Austria and northern France was effectively halted for a time during WW1 (with sausage eating banned) by the German authorities.  It appears that animals intestines used as sausage skins became so sought after during this time with them being used in Zeppelins to hold the hydrogen gas.

See our reviews and other articles at www.sausagereview.co.uk 

Saturday, 6 July 2013

Chipolatas - perhaps the solution to the smaller portion size?


Chipolatas anyone? Have you noticed that producers are regularly making and selling good quality smaller versions of their main stream sausages as chipolatas?


Now there was a time that chipolatas were seen as "kids food", but I have been surprised at the number of adults who we have spoken to recently about our sausage reviews who actually enjoy and would recommend chipolatas as an everyday sausage to eat.  OK not "everyday" as we all know the health warnings and implications about consumption of fatty foods. 


Photo of the excellent Churchgate Sausage Co - Pork Chipolata (Review)


However good quality chipolatas do come in at roughly about half the calories, fat and carbs of their bigger brothers from what we can see on the labelling, so 2 on a plate with your choice of mash, onions and gravy for example, in your mind, this may still be a completely satisfying meal.  Perhaps?

It seems to be the practice though to produce the chipolatas with their mix minced (ground) a bit finer so it will go easier in to the smaller diameter cases/skins, but essentially it's the virtually the same recipe that's being used.  OK some producers will do a slightly different mix for their chipolatas but please stay with me on this on the principle.  Yes we know sadly that you can get budget and value chipolatas out their from cheap shops and supermarkets that are horrible "fat sticks" which contain the absolute minimum percentages of meat plus heaven knows what else as fillers.  I'm really referring to choosing "quality produced" chipolatas here.

We are essentially talking of the psychological impact of the way you present food.  I am convinced that we have been conditioned that anything less than 2 sausages on a plate (with whatever you fancy...OK fellas I don't mean 2 more sausages!) is the minimum to make a good meal.  

I tried this recently with the family evening meal.  Sausage, mash and onion gravy all round using 2 very good quality chipolatas instead of 2 full porkers each. No complaints. In fact one of the ladies said she preferred the choice of chipolatas and would happily have those again.  OK a salad might have been dramatically less calories rather than mash and onions, and certainly the balsamic vinegar laced gravy, but it's the principle of effectively reducing portion size and still enjoying your food I'm banging on about.

OK yes I know, you could just dish up some of those "low fat" full size sausages I wrote about previously, but really this isn't what I see as the way forward.  
Adjusting to a smaller portion size though is probably going to be hard going I agree, but let's not kid ourselves too much that just dishing up less and serving such on smaller plates is going to fix everything. 

Try the chipolatas in place of the full size porkers next family meal time and see the reaction...if it works...way forward.

See our reviews and other articles at www.sausagereview.co.uk  

Sunday, 24 March 2013

Low Fat Sausages - are you sure?


Low fat sausages? It's not the sort I would immediately think of buying, however it looks like there's members of the Weight Watchers community out there counting their calories that do and probably will be quick to quote their "pro points" of the ones they say they prefer.

Now call me cynical but how can a low fat sausage be anything like a "proper sausage"?

A properly made, shall we call it a traditional sausage, will have around say 20% fat in the mix.  If you go less than this, the result when cooked we're told can be a rather dry and the taste and feel just isn't right. So if you take out some of the fat, what can you put in to the sausage to still keep it moist and not affect the taste?

Producers it seems have access to alternatives (or fillers) to make lower fat content sausages where a proportion of the added fat in the mix is replaced with the likes of SOYA PROTEIN, "FAT REPLACER", GELATIN (or AGAR AGAR), NON FAT DRY MILK POWDER, POTATO STARCH and TAPIOCA FLOUR to name just a few.  These fillers absorb and bind with water to bulk and keep moisture within. OK I get that but it's the "fat replacer" that I have been told of as it sounds rather "industrial", that I wanted to know more about...

From some research I find that there's a dietary fibre (Inulin) developed originally in Belgium that's extracted from certain plants, that when mixed with water, results in a creamy emulsion/ paste that can be added to the sausage mix to replace some of the fat. This fat replacer holds moisture and because of it's neutral flavour gives the sausage when cooked little or no perceivable reduction in taste and the "mouth feel" is more consistent with a full fat sausage.

In speaking to a local producer I asked whether he would consider low fat production and his view was that it wouldn't make business sense for him to produce as the demand was very low.  He also added that if people really watching their weight wanted to reduce calorie intake then perhaps they shouldn't eat sausages at all?  Or at least, instead of a portion of 2, make it 1 thus seeing a reduction of 50% but still enjoy their meal perhaps?  

I can see where he's coming from but what are Low Fat Sausages like?

Recently we sampled some Powters (Newmarket) - Low Fat sausages and surprisingly they taste very good. They had a nice "herby" and spiced flavour, and certainly a very good medium texture with a slight crumble as you bite in to them. The skins browned well.  So certainly a sausage that seem to work as a sausage should. From the ingredients on the packet, there's no mention of a specific fat replacer so I expect that the mix is bulked with extra rusk which is probably why the texture is crumblier no doubt.

I wasn't convinced entirely though that these would replace "proper sausages"...

    


So, armed with some low fats and some standard Powters, I cooked up a sausage and mash for the troops to see what the results of a full comparison would bring.

The low fats were spotted immediately.  The texture gave them away. 

Quite crumbly compared with standard ones the troops reported.  I agree but at the end of the day, low fat Powters from what we've found are at least as close you are probably able to get to a proper sausage whilst still giving some reduction in fat content.

Weight Watchers: 2pp for 1, 5pp for 2 and 7pp for 3 - well, what ever that means?.......




See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk


Tuesday, 12 February 2013

What's a British standard size for a sausage then?


Well, what is the size of a standard British sausage? It's a good question and given from what we've sampled and reviewed over the last near 12 months there doesn't seem to be much of a consistent sizing across any producers. Now good casings (hog and the smaller sheep) are available in some standardisation for example, 22-24mm diameter for chipolatas, 29-31mm for medium sausages, and 32-35mm for thick sausages. Alternative cases in other material do go as small as 19mm diameter. Whereas some cases can go to 60mm or larger for salami production for example.

We're told that sausages used to be produced in "4, 8, 16 & 32 to the pound" giving some consistency in sizes, however in production now just how much mixture gets in to the case and how long it is between twists appears to be ultimately down to the individual sausage maker as you may expect.

A search on the internet won't find too much on this either, so let's look at our own sampling data and what we've found. For the larger pork sausages, lengths do vary between 95mm to a whopping 130mm, mind you, Cumberland lengths can go to 580mm! 

The point here too is that you can under fill a large case and produce a cooked sausage of much smaller diameter. It's a bit "baggy" but the casing will tighten and shrink down some on cooking. Alternatively over stuffing will produce a much larger cooked sausage, but the risk of splits and bursting are more likely. 






Chipolatas that we've seen and tried vary widely too. You would think that these would be shorter than the porkers but they do vary from 85mm to a long 140mm. Cocktail sausages would be much shorter again you would expect, but yes, it's down to the producer. Additionally with hand production we've noticed that there is sometimes a real variance between linked sausages in the same string, whereas with machine twisted production they do maintain more of a consistency. 

The producers we've spoken to about this don't seem to see a problem with it as the size of what they produce they say is just as important as the quality of meat and the flavour the customer enjoys. It's almost part of the marketing and creating some identity from what we can see. 


Take Oxhey Lane Farm Shop in Pinner, John Wiggett is proud to produce his sausages BIG, and says he well known for this and even produces much larger jumbo versions of his best sellers for some of his regular customers. 

It's the same with Durrants Farm (Margaretting), Emily Stockwell is also known locally for producing what is practically a "quarter pounder" individual cumberland sausage! 

So being different is what it's all about then. 
Standard sizing is really not necessary. 

Vive la difference! 

See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk



Tuesday, 1 January 2013

Top Sausage 2012 - Sweetlands - Flitch

Sweetlands of Dunmow produce small batches of their flitch sausage around the time of the "Dunmow Flitch Trials" in July / August, and also at other times to be honest, which celebrates an ancient ceremony to award a flitch of bacon to married couples from anywhere in the world, if they can satisfy the Judge and Jury of 6 maidens and 6 bachelors that in 'twelvemonth and a day', they have 'not wisht themselves unmarried again'.  
See http://www.dunmowflitchtrials.co.uk/

We've raved about Sweetlands Flitch sausages and quite rightly so we believe.  70% pork meat (also some added fat we were informed) plus bacon, tomato and basil.  A very good looking raw sausage I have to say.  Lovely skins and all tied properly. Presentation matters. 



Well, what a sausage!  An extremely course / crumbly texture with a medium bite and a succulent melt in the mouth experience.  The seasoning is just enough and the taste well, as far as I'm concerned, superb.  

There's a slight salty initial taste from the bacon, then the sweetness from the tomato comes through with the basil.  A good combination that works really well.

The skins cook up nice and make every mouthful a pleasure. We did however have a few split skins, but that may have been as I had the heat up a little too high initially under the pan. These aren't best grilled, so stick to sizzling them in a pan or oven baking.

A "stonkingly" good sausage.....and is our Top Sausage 2012.


See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk

Thursday, 29 November 2012

Cocktail Sausages - what are they all about?


Most supermarkets sell retail packaged uncooked "small sausages", you know the rather pale pink, smooth, industrially produced looking sort, all regimentally aligned in their filmed packaging and all absolutely identical, which do seem to be very popular with children of all ages, and are no doubt a regular staple at your "little ones" birthday parties. However recently I've noticed specifically higher quality "cocktail sausages" appearing on the shelves alongside the more mainstream examples of sausage delight, but they seem to be just a smaller version of a chipolata, but are they?

It seems that a true "cocktail sausage" is something you can serve at a "party" or "soiree" either loose on a serving plate as finger food or with a cocktail stick stuck in each to help you pick them up and dip them.  You would eat these as you would with other delicacies, crudities and canapés, so a small sausage is ideal as it will be easy to eat in one or two bites, with or without a plate.




There appears there are quite a few variations to the theme such as pork, chicken, beef, and no doubt other meats and combinations if you can persuade your local butcher to run you up something different.  I've seen smoked salmon ones too, although I'm not sure about those personally!  There's even Kosher and Halal versions available from the right supplier!
Sauces to accompany these can be quite aromatic and thick such as sticky barbeque, chilli  ketchup, honey mustard or sweet & sour!  The sauces can be intense and strongly flavoured as your guests would perhaps just eat a couple along with the other fare.

We bought a pack of "cocktails" to try and as we are looking for a comparison, a pack of the same producers chipolatas went in to the basket too.  As the cocktail sausages lacked a specific meat percentage content on the label, we decided on a taste and texture comparison.  
Well we'll cut to the chase then.  In a blind tasting of these, I doubt whether you would taste any difference, so there you go!  The casings seem the same dimensionally and quality-wise, so why the extra cost for "cocktail sausages" above regular chipolatas?  Surely the extra twists on a chipolata sausage run for a producer can't amount to nearly an extra £2 / Kg?



I like a challenge, so within less than 5 minutes we've made some "cocktail sausages" out of the chipolatas we bought earlier!  With each chipolata, give each a bit of a squeeze a third of the way along it's length, four twists, move on to the next third and so on.  Cut them carefully apart and in the pan they go!

When cooking I half expected the little darlings to burst as the casings were pretty tight, but all was OK and I'll openly admit given the results from our test and the cost per kilo difference, we'll no doubt be buying chipolatas again to make our own "cocktail sausages" in the future...


See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk



Friday, 16 November 2012

"Other than pork"

We've been under pressure recently from a journalist friend and colleague to justify why we have been only sampling pork sausage!

He says that there's some really good, well made sausages out there in lamb, chicken and beef varieties...well bowing to his persistence on this we decided to go for it and buy in some "beef & cracked black pepper" just to get us started...


Hmm?  Yes they're OK I suppose but frankly taste and texture-wise I might as well have eaten a reasonable quality "beefburger"!

Now don't get me wrong a very well made sausage, and they cooked up very well and retained a good succulence, however you cannot escape the fact that probably in a blind tasting you wouldn't be able to "taste the difference" between these and a beefburger, even though these were actually Sainsbury's "Taste the Difference" sausages!



We will try some more varieties I'm sure just as our friend and colleague suggests, but I remain sceptical about any sausage "other than pork"....


See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk

Friday, 26 October 2012

Dragon Tails of the River Bank

Well to cut a long story short, my mate Graham and I decided to go fishing.  It was a trip for my birthday so I took the camping stove and cooking kit with me as we would be there all day and I thought we'd have a nice cooked lunch.  Sausages of course!

I packed half a dozen Meatline's Welsh Dragons just for the heck of it!  However knowing Graham likes fully flavoured and spicy food I didn't mention before hand these sausages come with a kick, just so I could gauge his reaction.  


Three each then pan fried on the river bank.

Eating these "outdoors" proved to be an excellent experience, blowing and munching we devoured four of these fiery monsters in some good quality soft rolls followed by a cup of tea (mind you I couldn't taste the tea having had my taste buds partially seared by the chilli) then we sat back.  Reaction from Graham...silence!  They must have hit the spot then!
After a few minutes, OK yes, let's have the other two!  


The verdict.  Excellent, we must do these again.  They did taste slightly different to when we sampled them in the kitchen though which was strange, perhaps a week in the freezer has increased the time before ignition a little bit, but don't get me wrong, they were particularly good.  It just seemed that it took a few bites more this time before the fire started!

As for the fishing, not a great day, but the dragons certainly made up for it!

See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk 




Friday, 19 October 2012

Fry, Grill, Poach or Bake


Some time ago I read a piece in the Guardian online titled "How to cook the perfect sausage" which sort of answered a question that I've been asking myself recently, whether actually frying, grilling, poaching or baking sausages is the best approach and gets superior results.

The article's conclusion was somewhat loose, but suggested frying was best.  However we've sampled a few sausages lately and had serious sausage rupturing happen on a few examples when pan frying.  Same pan, same oil type, same temperature, same rupturing, so is there a better way.

The particular Guardian article also covered all about whether to prick sausages before cooking but we'll park that for now and concentrate on the cooking processes.  As I recall the author did a test in cooking a couple of sausages by each method comparing results, which intent is to try myself.

Frying method, straightforward enough.  Grilling (broiling if you're non-UK) same.  Poaching?  In terms of clarifying what is meant here this is perhaps a double-cook technique that Heston Blumenthal would evidently be proud of.  Poaching sausages in 65° C water for 20 minutes, then frying them off in a hot pan.  Not quite "sous vide" as it will be without the vacuum bag!  Baking (roasting) in the oven, for approx 20-25 minutes at pre-heated 180° C / Gas 4.

So with a pack of decent "everyday sausages", AKA Priors Hall Farm - Traditional Porks, let me in the kitchen, I may be some time...

Observations and results then...


Right to left: FRY, GRILL, POACH, BAKE


BAKING: Roasting really and this isn't rocket science so as per the above. Quite a bit of run off of fat in to the dish. The flavour was drier and the bite, well you could feel a slight bagginess.  The skins though noticeably toughened, wrinkled up (no splits) and the weight loss the highest of all the methods was 26% (see table below).

POACHING: OK this is not just poaching as it involved frying off at the end in a hot pan, and the results were interesting as the skins were less tough than the BAKE and the GRILL but the sausage was very moist and succulent.  Noticeable was a small number of oil droplets in the water that will have been released from the sausage and when drained there was a definite "paleness".  When fried off though, the colouring changed dramatically.  No splits. Weight loss 8%.

GRILLING: This is broiling for non-UK peeps.  I see that "heat from above" = Broiling, and "heat from beneath" = Grilling.  So as I'm in the UK, I bunged it under the grill!  The skin toughened, with a minor split, the bite was firmer and the taste became sharper.  Quite a bit of run off of fat in to the grill pan.  Weight loss 18%.

FRYING: Using our normal sampling method results were much the same as when we tested these sausages in May 2012.  Good taste and medium bite/soft(ish) skin.  Minor split.  Weight loss 9%.


Method     Before    After Net
Bake  75g      55g -26%
Poach           72g      66g -8%
Grill                75g      61g  -18%
Fry                75g      68g -9%



So what's the preference?
 Well the POACHING method did produce a really succulent result with similar weight loss to frying, no splits or ruptures but the extra "work" and saucepan/thermometer time was a pain.  If you've got the time Sausage Review can confirm that this method works. 

Let's face it though FRYING for us when doing our sampling is still the most effective, splits and all, but each to their own I suppose. 

See our sausage reviews at www.sausagereview.co.uk


Thursday, 11 October 2012

Chipolata Fest

We've had a bit of a "chipolata fest" recently tasting some fine examples.

See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk


Black Farmers Daughter
Premium pork chipolatas the packaging says with "flavours without frontiers" and gluten free too!  Mind you soya flour as an alternative ingredient should be interesting then...



Simon Dennis (Sawbridgeworth)
These are yet again a proper no nonsense sausage from Simon Dennis of Sawbridgeworth.  The seasoning was spot on with enough lingering spice taste on the palette after eating.  Minimum 75% meat within natural sheeps casings...



Giggly Pig (Romford)
We made the trip over to Harold Hill, Romford recently to check out Giggly Pig and buy a selection for tasting.  A good selection too was obtained along with the chipolatas, more about we'll cover separately...




Quality & Excellence
 
(Theydon Bois)
The Theydon Flyer - 
On the personal recommendation from a friend and business associate we called in to Quality & Excellence's Family Butchers in Theydon Bois to catch a THEYDON FLYER or two...




Saturday, 22 September 2012

Sweetlands (Dunmow) - Olde English


Sweetlands of Dunmow do indeed produce some really good sausages. We liked their "Flitch Sausage", so I called in yesterday and picked up some Olde English to try next. Well eyes down, look in...


These sausages are made on the premises at Dunmow and we're informed they contain 75% pork meat sourced from a multi award winning local pork supplier at Great Garnetts.  Good natural casings are used too, and they are yet another very good looking raw sausage, all tied properly, and as you know, we believe presentation really matters. 

Now let's not beat about the bush on these, they cooked up really well and tasted great.  The flavour which had well enough spicy oomph to interest the palette with a texture that is medium to course which indeed gave a good meaty chew.  There was a definite crispness biting through the skins in to the juicy sausage meat inside. They're a tasty succulent sausage indeed...



I'm sure you will like these, so if you are ever in Dunmow and call in to Sweetlands to buy some, tell them Sausage Review told you!

See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk

Tuesday, 18 September 2012

Durrants Farm (Margaretting) - Cumberland Sausage


Emily Stockwell of Durrants Farm, an artisan sausage producer based in Margaretting, Essex is passionate about only using good ingredients.  No preservatives, no gristle, no skin or connective tissue, just carefully hand prepared quality cuts of pork from her own rare breed pigs get in to her sausages.  


Now these cumberlands are "BIG", and I'll say again, "BIG", weighing in at 110g on average...and when you think about it, each sausage is virtually a "quarter pounder"!  But don't be put off by their size, they cook up beautifully and taste wonderful.  The texture is medium to course, slightly crumbly and with the nicely browned natural hog skins this makes for a really good bite and a satisfying chew.


85%-87% meat, good quality hog casings none of which split or shrunk incidentally, a distinctive peppery flavour, and above all, the "BIG" meatiness!

See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk

Monday, 17 September 2012

Durrants Farm - Chipolatas


Durrants Farm, an artisan sausage producer based in Margaretting, Essex. Operating from a family run small holding their speciality is "homemade sausages" from their own rare breed pigs...  



Emily Stockwell tells me that she is really particular about what goes in the mix. Only good ingredients are used, no preservatives, no gristle, no skin or connective tissue, along with carefully hand prepared quality cuts of pork get in to her sausages.  Home made seasoning to Emily's own recipe! 

87% meat approximately we're informed, good quality sheeps casings and a tried and tested mix that delivers.  Now cooked up these sausages are a delight.  Medium firm with a medium course texture that gives a really good bite and chew.  The flavour is mild but the meatiness is BIG!  We like these!

See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk

Saturday, 15 September 2012

Meatline (Maldon) - Welsh Dragon


The victors of the recent 2012 Maldon Best of British Sausage Awards, Meatline of Maldon, Essex with their winning Welsh Dragon Sausages have finally reached our review...  


These sausages are really something and although they contain not a single trace of dragon meat (yes yes ha ha!), the "hint of" sweet chilli does produce some fire.  It's not all heat and flames here though, the texture and bite make for a very satisfying experience. There is a good succulence and yes OK the flavour of the leeks is a little overshadowed by the chilli which does linger for quite a while after, but these are certainly an interesting sausage you will enjoy.

See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk

Monday, 10 September 2012

Churchgate - Classic Pork


The Classic Pork is a superb example of a properly made and presented traditional pork sausage. We don't need to say much more.  When you get a chance to try them they'll speak for themselves... 



More than 80% meat with traditional ingredients loaded in to nicely filled quality hog casings makes for a very good sausage.  A medium smooth texture with a lovely bite. The skins cook up really well and we were suitably impressed!  A really great tasting traditional sausage.



Mayfields Farm, Sheering Road, Old Harlow Essex CM17 0JP

See our full review and others at www.sausagereview.co.uk